Fox mustang 3g alternator how to

Parts:(1) 130A 3G alternator. Mine was purchased from Pep Boys for It was specified as standard equipment for a '94 5.0L Mustang GT.(1) 2" Grade 8 3/8" coarse thread Bolt (29 cents)(1) Grade 8 Nut for above (2) Washers for above (1) 10" length of 10 or 8 gauge stranded-core electrical wire. (1) FORD 3G Alternator stator wire connector (Junk yard, fabricate, etc.). (1) Electrical screw lug connector (10ga) (1) 12" length of 1/2" diameter wire loom. ($2)(1) 2" section of 8 gauge heat shrink tubing (1) 2" section of 14 gauge heat shrink tubing

Procedure:Assuming moderate mechanical and electrical experience, this entire procedure should take less than 2 hours to perform. The author completed the install the first time in about 2 hours and the second time in approximately 45 minutes.Prep the car:1. Start by DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY and removing the serpentine belt.2. Unplug the factory alternator connectors from the alternator.3. Unbolt and remove the factory alternator (2 bolts).4. Tie top radiator hose out of the way.5. Remove air filter housing and filter to give more room to work. (optional / recommended)6. Peel back / unravel plastic covering on factory wiring harness. Test fit the 3G alternator, slide in the bottom mounting bolt, and rotate into position. If you have a supercharger kit installed, these instructions will not make sense but may be of some use. Mark the factory alternator bracket needing clearance (if necessary). Clearance the alternator bracket by cutting/grinding away the marked area with a die cutter or dremel. The author used a dremel and a small cutting bit. This part took about 10 minutes to complete.Secure alternator using original bottom bolt and new 2" top nut, bolt, and washers. Locate the point where the pair of MAIN wires (black/orange) join and become one. 2. Cut at intersection., leaving one MAIN wire. Splice in new piece of 10 Gauge wire, solder, and use heat shrink tubing to insulate. Test fit wire to alternator MAIN lug, trim as needed for good fit. Crimp and solder on screw-terminal, use heat shrink tubing to insulate as needed. Install screw lug on MAIN screw terminal. Once tight, slightly bend screw lug away from alternator housing. Cut stator wire 2" from factory oval plug. This cut frees the factory 3-prong spade connector which can be discarded. Splice in new stator connector, solder, use heat shrink to insulate. Apply wire loom, plug in connectors, tie wrap as needed. Re-install air filter and housing. Reconnect battery and immediately check voltage across terminals. It should read above 12V. If not, disconnect battery and check installation. Untie radiator hose. Connect voltmeter across battery terminals. With key off, voltage should read 12-12.6 volts. My car was at 12.4V. Turn off all accessories and turn key on. Instrumentation battery light should be on (dash). And voltage should drop to between 11 and 12V.***if voltage drops below 10V, remove key immediately and re-check installation. Start car. Voltage should jump to above 13 Volts. Our car was at 14.2V. Battery light should turn off.***if this does not happen, shut off car immediately and re-check installation. Bring engine to 2,000 RPM With all accessories off, Voltage should be above 14V. Ours was at 14.4V.6. Return to idle. Voltage should still be above 13V. Mine was at 14.2V.7. Turn on headlights. Voltage should still be above 12.5V. Mine was at 14.2V.8. Turn heater fan on high. Voltage should still be above 12.5V. Mine was at 14.1V. Turn on road lights. Voltage should still be above 12.5V Mine was at 14.0V.10. Bring engine to 1,000 RPM. Voltage should be above 13V. Mine was at 14.5V.11. Shut off car.