Fox mustang 3g alternator how to

Parts:(1) 130A 3G alternator. Mine was purchased from Pep Boys for It was specified as standard equipment for a '94 5.0L Mustang GT.(1) 2" Grade 8 3/8" coarse thread Bolt (29 cents)(1) Grade 8 Nut for above (2) Washers for above (1) 10" length of 10 or 8 gauge stranded-core electrical wire. (1) FORD 3G Alternator stator wire connector (Junk yard, fabricate, etc.). (1) Electrical screw lug connector (10ga) (1) 12" length of 1/2" diameter wire loom. ($2)(1) 2" section of 8 gauge heat shrink tubing (1) 2" section of 14 gauge heat shrink tubing

Procedure:Assuming moderate mechanical and electrical experience, this entire procedure should take less than 2 hours to perform. The author completed the install the first time in about 2 hours and the second time in approximately 45 minutes.Prep the car:1. Start by DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY and removing the serpentine belt.2. Unplug the factory alternator connectors from the alternator.3. Unbolt and remove the factory alternator (2 bolts).4. Tie top radiator hose out of the way.5. Remove air filter housing and filter to give more room to work. (optional / recommended)6. Peel back / unravel plastic covering on factory wiring harness. Test fit the 3G alternator, slide in the bottom mounting bolt, and rotate into position. If you have a supercharger kit installed, these instructions will not make sense but may be of some use. Mark the factory alternator bracket needing clearance (if necessary). Clearance the alternator bracket by cutting/grinding away the marked area with a die cutter or dremel. The author used a dremel and a small cutting bit. This part took about 10 minutes to complete.Secure alternator using original bottom bolt and new 2" top nut, bolt, and washers. Locate the point where the pair of MAIN wires (black/orange) join and become one. 2. Cut at intersection., leaving one MAIN wire. Splice in new piece of 10 Gauge wire, solder, and use heat shrink tubing to insulate. Test fit wire to alternator MAIN lug, trim as needed for good fit. Crimp and solder on screw-terminal, use heat shrink tubing to insulate as needed. Install screw lug on MAIN screw terminal. Once tight, slightly bend screw lug away from alternator housing. Cut stator wire 2" from factory oval plug. This cut frees the factory 3-prong spade connector which can be discarded. Splice in new stator connector, solder, use heat shrink to insulate. Apply wire loom, plug in connectors, tie wrap as needed. Re-install air filter and housing. Reconnect battery and immediately check voltage across terminals. It should read above 12V. If not, disconnect battery and check installation. Untie radiator hose. Connect voltmeter across battery terminals. With key off, voltage should read 12-12.6 volts. My car was at 12.4V. Turn off all accessories and turn key on. Instrumentation battery light should be on (dash). And voltage should drop to between 11 and 12V.***if voltage drops below 10V, remove key immediately and re-check installation. Start car. Voltage should jump to above 13 Volts. Our car was at 14.2V. Battery light should turn off.***if this does not happen, shut off car immediately and re-check installation. Bring engine to 2,000 RPM With all accessories off, Voltage should be above 14V. Ours was at 14.4V.6. Return to idle. Voltage should still be above 13V. Mine was at 14.2V.7. Turn on headlights. Voltage should still be above 12.5V. Mine was at 14.2V.8. Turn heater fan on high. Voltage should still be above 12.5V. Mine was at 14.1V. Turn on road lights. Voltage should still be above 12.5V Mine was at 14.0V.10. Bring engine to 1,000 RPM. Voltage should be above 13V. Mine was at 14.5V.11. Shut off car.

How to install a alternator on a STB equipped 4.6 4v sn95 cobra

What to do:Step 1: Disconnect the battery. You don't want to get french fried, so take off at least the negative terminal before you start. Spray the battery, terminal, and cable heads with the battery cleaner and wipe it off as directed. Clean the cable heads with the battery brush to make sure you have a good connection later. If replacing the battery, just take the whole thing out.Step 2: Disconnect the rigid hose running directly under the front crossbeam of the STB. The coupling point is on the passengers side, just to that side of the alternator. Gently pass it under the STB bar, and pull it slightly up to get it out of your way. Be careful not to crush, bend, stress, or otherwise damage it.Step 3: Using your flathead screwdriver, GENTLY pry up the plastic lock that holds the electrical plug connection to the alternator. This plug is on the top-center of the alternator. There is a plastic clip/lock on the back of the plug that keeps it anchored in the socket. Pry this clip away from the back of the alternator VERY gently, and wiggle the whole plug up until it pops out of the alternator. Pull it free and move it out of the way, but don't pull on the wires it's attached to.Step 4: Remove the drive belt from the alternator. Down below and to the left of the alternator (facing the car from the front) you will see some engine pulleys. One of these is mounted on a metal swing-arm. This is the belt tensioner. As it's name implies, that swing arm pushes the pulley against the belt, keeping the whole engine belt tight. At the base of the arm is a metal plate held on with two nuts. Remove the nuts with your ratchet and take off the plate to expose the base of the arm. In the center of the base is a 1/2" square hole. Put the head of your belt tool or long ratchet into that hole and firmly pull the tool handle to the driver's side. The belt will start to go slack and can be slipped off the alternator pulley. If replacing the belt, wiggle the whole thing out of the engine. If not, slowly release your pull on the belt tool handle and let the belt go slack.Step 5: Remove the alternator bracket. In the picture above, 4 parallel wires run across the top of the alternator's upper mount. This piece is the bracket. There are 2 bolts and 2 nuts on it: Two bolts that anchor the alternator to it, and two nuts behind those that anchor the bracket to the block. Take your 13/32 ratchet and remove all 4. Lift the loose bracket up and twist it gently out of the way to expose most of the alternator's top.Step 6: Now you can reach the last electrical connection to the alternator. At the top of the alternator, on the driver's side, is a single electrical wire held on by a small nut. Remove the nut and disconnect the wire. Bend it gently out of your way.Step 7: Now is where things get a bit frustrating, especially if you have big gorilla hands like mine. Try to maneuver your ratchet below the alternator, and using the combination of short and long extensions on your wrench, start ratcheting out the two bolts anchoring the bottom of the alternator. These are a pain because there's very little room to work with, especially on the driver's side bolt (it's obstructed by part of the radiator hose) and the bolts are long and may be stuck in there pretty good. I did the most cussing at this step and the next one.Step 8: Now that all the bolts are out and the connections unhooked, the alternator should just be sitting there loose. Mocking you. It's pully rolling back and forth in teasing as it's burnt-out bearings laugh and squeak... *ahem* This is the hardest part. There isn't enough room in the alternators cavity to twist it to any kind of convenient angle to maneuver it out between the coolant pipe and STB. If the pulley isn't getting hung up on something, it's the anchor bolt protrusions or the back end of the casing. Expect to bust your fingers a few times wiggling it around in there. What doesn't help is that the thing is bloody heavy on top of being unwieldy, so just when you think you might be on to something, your arm is too tired to hold it up, you drop it, and the game starts again. Well here's the secret: Take that can of WD-40 and lube up the coolant pipe and the STB beam with it. Lift the alternator STRAIGHT UP and angle the top slightly towards you. The tip of the pulley will hit the coolant pipe, and the edge of the back will hit the STB. It looks like it might fit, but feels like it won't. Get your hands under the alternator, brace your foot on something, and pull HARD in a straight line towards your forehead. The STB will flex slightly backward, and the coolant pipe slightly forward, and combined with the WB-40, the alternator will come popping out with a satisfying *clank*. And maybe smack you in the face, for one last laugh. But hey, at least it's out.Installing the new Alternator is the same process in reverse. I used a rubber mallet to gently tap the new alt into the space between the coolant pipe and STB until it falls into place. Position it and anchor the two bottom bolts. You want them good and tight, but don't strip them, and put a little WD-40 on the threads to keep them from rusting. Reattach the small wire connection with it's nut (or a new nut, if one came on your new alternator) and reconnect the locking plug to the top-center of the new alternator. Reattach the upper mounting bracket to the block with the two nuts, then attach the alternator to it with the two bolts you removed earlier. Put your serpentine belt tool or wrench into the belt tensioner hole, pull to the driver's side, and slip the belt back onto the alternator pulley. Now STOP. Check all the other pulleys and make sure the belt is seated correctly on all of them. Once that is all five-by-five, put the cover plate back onto the belt tensioner arm with the two nuts and either reattach your old battery or install your new one. Lastly, pull the rigid hose that you disconnected at the beginning back under the STB and reconnect it. Make sure it's good and snug.

how to obtain a good tach signal SN95 cobras 4.6 4v

Comes in handy for shift lights, window switches, ect....Tach signal originates at PCM, pin#48, connector # C294, orange wire/white stripe. It changes color at connector # C213 and becomes brown (tan) wire/yellow stripe. It then routes to gauge cluster at connector # C251 (shown above) pin #8.

Sn95 cobra longtube header install(4.6 4v)

Ok, lets get started-Jack up the front end and remove the wheels, calipers, rotors, abs sensors, struts and swaybar endlinks from both sides.-Remove the springs and Tie Rod ends also.-Unbolt the steering rack, swing forward and tie to the swaybar. DO NOT disconnect the lines.-Support the motor from above. I used a STB with a chain looped around it and through the alternator bracket.-Mark the k-member where it sits on the framerail. This is so everything will be aligned right when you put it back to gether.-Remove the nuts that secure the motor mount to the k-member. There is a hole in the k-member behind where the spring sits.-Place a jack under the center of the k-member and remove the 8 k-member bolts. 2 above each spring and two on each framerail at the back.-Lower the jack, being careful not to lose the k-member. It isn't very heavy, just awkward. Two people would be best for this.-Place a block of wood on the jack and place it under the edge of the oil pan, where the bolts are. This will help support the motor.-Remove the mid pipe.-Remove the stock manifolds. Remove the EGR tube and smog pump line on each side.-Remove the starter.-Remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan.-Remove the mounter mount from the block.-Place the headers onto the block and finger tighten a couple bolts to hold it in. Use the stock stud and nut where possible. There is a plce on the drivers side where you will have to use a BBK bolt.-Install the bolts through the header and into the block. You can use high temp. loctite to keep the bolts from backing out. Don't forget to reinstall the dip stick tube when installing the bolts. Reinstall the EGR and smog pump lines.-Reinstall the motor mounts. I think I had to grind down a mounter mount bolt on the drivers side as well to get it to go back on.-Install the new midpipe.-Reinstall the starter-Remove the jack from under the oil pan.-Jack the k-member into place, aligning it with the marks you made, and install the bolts.-Tighten the motor mounts.-Reinstall the steering rack, springs, tie rod ends, sway bar endlinks, rotors, calipers, abs sensors and struts.-Take it for a slow test drive to make sure everything is tight and in line.I think that's it. I may have missed a few things, that's the jist of it though.Overall this isn't a hard job, just very time consuming. If you don't have a lift plan on taking a good 10 hours or so. It took me and a buddy 6 hours without stopping. I would never attempt without dropping the K. We had the k-member on the ground in an hour and a half.

ford OBD2 info/codes

Ford OBD-II Trouble CodesHere is a breakdown of what each digit of the code means:First Character - SystemThe first character identifies identifies the system related to the trouble code.* P = Powertrain* B = Body* C = Chassis* U = UndefinedSecond Digit - Code TypeThe second digit identifies whether the code is a generic code (same on all OBD-II equpped vehicles), or a manufacturer specific code.* 0 = Generic (this is the digit zero -- not the letter "O")* 1 = Enhanced (manufacturer specific)Third Digit - Sub-SystemThe third digit denotes the type of sub-system that pertains to the code* 1 = Emission Management (Fuel or Air)* 2 = Injector Circuit (Fuel or Air)* 3 = Ignition or Misfire* 4 = Emission Control* 5 = Vehicle Speed & Idle Control* 6 = Computer & Output Circuit* 7 = Transmission* 8 = Transmission* 9 = SAE Reserved* 0 = SAE ReservedFourth and Fifth DigitsThese digits, along with the others, are variable, and relate to a particular problem. For example,a P0171 code means P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). To lookup your particular code, visit our OBD Trouble Codes section.# P0100 MAF Circuit Malfunction# P0101 MAF Circuit Range Problem# P0102 - Mass Air Flow Circuit Low Input# P0103 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input# P0104 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent# P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor A Circuit High Input# P0132 - Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)e# P0133 - Oxygen O2 Sensor Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)# P0139 - Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 2)# P0153 - Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2, Sensor 1)# P0159 - Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2, Sensor 2)# P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected# P0301 - Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected# P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire Detected# P0303 - Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected# P0304 - Cylinder #4 Misfire Detected# P0305 - Cylinder #5 Misfire Detected# P0306 - Cylinder #6 Misfire Detected# P0307 - Cylinder #7 Misfire Detected# P0308 - Cylinder #8 Misfire Detected# P0309 - Cylinder #9 Misfire Detected# P0310 - Cylinder #10 Misfire Detected# P0311 - Cylinder #11 Misfire Detected# P0312 - Cylinder #12 Misfire Detected# P0420 - Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold# P0431 - Warm Up Catalyst Below Threshold# P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction# P0500 - Variable Speed Sensor Malfunction# OBD-II Bxxxx Body Codes# OBD-II Cxxxx Chassis Codes# OBD-II Uxxxx Network Codes P1001 KOER Test Cannot Be Completed P1039 Vehicle Speed Signal Missing or Improper P1051 Brake Switch Signal Missing or Improper P1100 Mass Air Flow Sensor Intermittent P1101 Mass Air Flow Sensor out of Self-Test Range P1112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Intermittent P1116 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is out of Self-Test Range P1117 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Intermittent P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range P1121 Throttle Position Sensor Inconsistent with Mass Air Flow Sensor P1124 Throttle Position Sensor out of Self-Test Range P1125 Throttle Position Sensor Intermittent P1127 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater not on During KOER Test P1128 Heated Oxygen Sensor Signals reversed P1129 Heated Oxygen Sensor Signals reversed P1130 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 1 P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1 P1132 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1 P1135 Ignition Switch Signal Missing or Improper P1137 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1 P1138 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1 P1150 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 2 P1151 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2 P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2 P1157 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2 P1158 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2 P1220 Series Throttle Control fault P1224 Throttle Position Sensor B out of Self-Test Range P1230 Open Power to Fuel Pump circuit P1231 High Speed Fuel Pump Relay activated P1232 Low Speed Fuel Pump Primary circuit failure P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line P1234 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line P1235 Fuel Pump Control out of range P1236 Fuel Pump Control out of range P1237 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault P1238 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault P1250 Lack of Power to FPRC Solenoid P1260 Theft Detected - Engine Disabled P1270 Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed Limiter Reached P1288 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of Self-Test Range P1289 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range P1290 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Less Than Self-Test Range P1299 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition P1309 Misfire Detection Monitor not enabled P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor circuit Input fault P1352 Ignition Coil A - Primary circuit fault P1353 Ignition Coil B - Primary circuit fault P1354 Ignition Coil C - Primary circuit fault P1355 Ignition Coil D - Primary circuit fault P1356 Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Module Input to PCM P1358 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal out of Self-Test Range P1359 Spark Output circuit fault P1364 Ignition Coil Primary circuit fault P1380 VCT Solenoid Valve circuit Short or Open P1381 Cam Timing Advance is excessive P1383 Cam Timing Advance is excessive P1390 Octane Adjust out of Self-Test Range P1400 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Low Voltage P1401 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit High Voltage P1403 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor Hoses Reversed P1405 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Upstream Hose P1406 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Downstream Hose P1407 EGR No Flow Detected P1408 EGR Flow out of Self-Test Range P1409? EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction P1409? Electronic Vacuum Regulator Control circuit fault P1410 EGR Barometric Pressure Sensor VREF Voltage P1411 Secondary Air is not being diverted P1413 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit Low Voltage P1414 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage P1442 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage P1443 Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault P1444 Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input Low P1445 Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input High P1450 Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction P1452 Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank P1455 Substantial Leak or Blockage in Evaporative Emission Control System P1460 Wide Open Throttle Air Conditioning Cutoff circuit malfunction P1461 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit Low Input P1462 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit high Input P1463 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor Insufficient Pressure change P1464 ACCS to PCM High During Self-Test P1469 Low Air Conditioning Cycling Period P1473 Fan Secondary High with Fans Off P1474 Low Fan Control Primary circuit P1479 High Fan Control Primary circuit P1480 Fan Secondary Low with Low Fans On P1481 Fan Secondary Low with High Fans On P1483 Power to Cooling Fan Exceeded Normal Draw P1484 Variable Load Control Module Pin 1 Open P1500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent P1501 Programmable Speedometer & Odometer Module/Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent circuit-failure P1502 Invalid or Missing Vehicle Speed Message or Brake Data P1504 Intake Air Control circuit malfunction P1505 Idle Air Control System at Adaptive Clip P1506 Idle Air Control Over Speed Error P1507 Idle Air Control Under Speed Error P1512 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed P1513 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed P1516 Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error P1517 Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error P1518 Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Open P1519? Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open P1520? Intake Manifold Runner Control circuit fault P1519? Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Closed P1520? Intake Manifold Runner Control fault P1530 Open or Short to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit P1537 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open P1538 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open P1539 Power to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit Exceeded Normal Current Draw P1549 Intake Manifold Temperature Valve Vacuum Actuator Connection P1550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor out of Self-Test Range P1605 PCM Keep Alive Memory Test Error P1625 Voltage to Vehicle Load Control Module Fan circuit not detected P1626 Voltage to Vehicle Load Control Module circuit not detected P1650 Power Steering Pressure Switch out of Self-Test Range P1651 Power Steering Pressure Switch Input fault P1700 Transmission system problems P1701 Reverse Engagement Error P1702 Transmission system problems P1703 Brake On/Off Switch out of Self-Test Range P1704 Transmission system problems P1705 Manual Lever Position Sensor out of Self-Test Range P1709 Park or Neutral Position Switch out of Self-Test Range P1710 Transmission system problems P1711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor out of Self-Test Range P1713thruP172 Transmission system problems P1729 4x4 Low Switch Error P1740 Transmission system problems P1741 Torque Converter Clutch Control Error P1742 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Faulty P1743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Faulty P1744 Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in Off Position P1745 Transmission system problems P1746 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid - Open circuit P1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid - Short circuit P1749 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Failed Low P1751 Shift Solenoid No. 1 Performance P1754 Coast Clutch Solenoid circuit malfunction P1756 Shift Solenoid No. 2 Performance P1760 Transmission system problems P1761 Shift Solenoid No. 3 Performance P1762 Transmission system problems P1767 Transmission system problems P1780 Transmission Control Switch circuit is out of Self-Test Range P1781 4x4 Low Switch is out of Self-Test Range P1783 Transmission Over-Temperature Condition P1784 Transmission system problems P1785 Transmission system problems P1786 Transmission system problems P1787 Transmission system problems P1788 Transmission system problems P1789 Transmission system problems P1900 Transmission system problems

hanging rpm fix

This is for anyone that doesn't like when the RPM's that are slow to drop or even rise slightly when you push the clutch in to shift. Another symptom, is that when cruising in a higher gear and you let your foot off the gas, the car almost cruises on its own for a bit.First, understand the problem. The engine is recieving too much air through the IAC valve. From my knowledge Ford did this for emissions reasons.As a side effect of this fix, when you downshift, the car burbles a lot more, sounds like a carburated engine. You get a little more engine braking effect.The FIX: Most older mustangs have an external IAC valve. Meaning that it is easy to find, follow a small air hose (1/2" ID) to a silver cylinder thing on your intake (the IAC solenoid). Once you found it, the older fix was to buy a 1/2" copper pipe cap, drill out a small hole, insert this into the line the restrict air flow through the IAC, and your done.Remove the two bolts and move this assembly.You should see the following, the IAC assembly has two "ports" with the solenoid controlling the air flow between these two ports, what we want to accomplish is to restrict the airflow leading through this.To do this, there should be a small gasket on your intake, or it could be stuck to the IAC valve.Remove this (carefully)Trace out the shape of this gasket as well as the holes for mounting bolts, and the two airholes, onto a piece of 1/32" aluminum or something similar.Cut out the outline of this "restrictor plate" from the aluminum.Cut out the holes for your bolts to go through.Cut out a single one of the Air holes.Now the tricky part. You have to decide how big to make the other hole because this determines the amount of air you are restricting. The smallest you should go would be around 5/32", the worst case if you go to small is your car will stall when fix is complete, if this happens just take the plate out, make the hole bigger, and check that.The hole I used is around 9/32" which is about the medium you would want to go.After your "restricter plate" is cut out, mount it with the small hole on the passenger side of the IAC, and make sure to replace the gasket against the intake.Start your car, you should notice the RPMs drop when you start back to normal very quickly.If it idles smoothly, try putting turning on the AC, this will load the engine down.If your car stalls out, remove the plate, make the hole bigger, try again.If still idling smoothly, bolt your shaker back on, take it for a spin. You might need to adjust your driving/clutching style after being used to the crappy RPM hang, so don't be discouraged.Also, you might want to disconnect your battery during the procedure to make your computer relearn it tweaks after you finish. If, after you start the car you notice a "whistling" sound, then take a look at your plate, make sure the BIG hole is at least as big as the hole on the IAC valve. ALso make sure edges of holes are rounded (sharp edges are bad), and the holes are round.

Boost a spark install

A how to :- Disconnect the battery-Find a mounting spot-Find 4 pieces of rubber(for mounting to keep from grounding out...or use a couple of good coats of electricial tape on bottom of box)-This unit consists of 6 wires(2 in 1 sleeve...)-Imput wire( thick red w/ inline fuse )-Output wire( thick red w/ no fuse )-Black/purple stripe( ground )-Blacked sleeved wire w/ rca plug( to controller in car ) -Sleeved wires ( red and black wire ) - After mounted :-Run ground(purple/black) to hood strap ground, soldier connection and bolt down -Go to Pass. side rear of engine, remove 10 mm bolt in wiring harness pictured above and slit some plastic sheathing protection from the bulk of the harness to allow for wire seperation. Find the Red wire w/ the light green stripe, cut in half about 11/2 inches from top of connector, strip both ends, connect BAP IMPUT (red fused) wire to the red/ lg wire coming from the connector(w/ the 10mm bolt) and connect BAP output (other thick red wire) to the other side of the red/lg wire that goes back into the black sheathing. solider all connections and tape accordingly.-On to the sleeved black wire that contains 1 red wire and 1 black wire.-Boosted cars: Use supplied pressure switch to get good boost reading.. connect red/ black wires to posts on pressure switch to bring BAP in proportionatly as compaired to boost.-N/A / Nitrous : Disreguard pressure switch, make a jumper wire to tie red and black wire together( full time BAP operation controlled from cockpit switch) BELOWController box: Mount in car desired location, connect BAP rca wire to this to control spark intensity...ie 10 = 13.5 volts 50= 21 volts-Be sure to soilder all conections and tape accordingly, any wires ran through oles needs grommets.....happy install and good luck